Earlier in the year I went on a bikepacking trip from Aberdeen to Edinburgh with Davey. We had a great time even though the weather was a bit rubbish. After that I decided that a trip that was really flat, with no pesky mountains to climb would be good fun. So I decided to ride from Edinburgh to Glasgow on the canal. Sounds pretty flat to me! I’d cycled a bit of the route the year before, but now it was time to go all out on the 123km ride.
I spent a couple of days catching up with Davey and Hannah, which was nice – managed to snag a room in the University Halls, which meant huge buffet breakfasts to get some calories in.
Disappointingly, the day started out overcast, gloomy, and raining. Wasn’t going to stop me though, and I set off down the well maintained towpath by the side of the Union canal
I’ve always had a wild urge to suddenly leap out at folk cycling down towpaths to see if they will cycle into the canal. Today I was reminded exactly how tenuous my grip on the path was every time I got to a bridge. Often cobbled, always narrow, and with the possibility of meeting someone coming the other way, I was very conscious that one slip would see my bike at the bottom of the canal.
There’s a couple of very dramatic aqueducts that take the canal over rivers far, far below.. the fact that I was clipped into my pedals a long way up had my heart racing.
Slowly the joggers, dog walkers and cyclists began to become scarce, and I settled into a nice easy rhythm. A bit late starting, but with plenty of time to get to my overnight stop. As you might expect, the canal was pretty level – in fact, the whole trip only had a 380m climb – and in the first day I didn’t actually encounter any locks (which would have meant something resembling a hill)… apart from the massively exciting Falkirk wheel.
But I am getting ahead of myself. Falkirk is quite a ride from Edinburgh – past quiet little villages, peaceful canal basins and the occasional fisherman. My route planning had suggested a shortcut past Broxburn, but I stuck to the canal itself and eventually sailed into Linlithgow, birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots and James V. Time for refreshments and a quick exploration of the town and the palace before getting back on the towpath… something which proved harder than you might think. How in heaven’s name can you LOSE a canal? Finally realising my mistake, next stop was Falkirk and the Wheel. Just before Falkirk is a tunnel – bedecked with fairy lights, it’s still a source of some concern to me (see ‘canal, falling in’).
Time for a brief stop to watch the wheel rising – I had hoped to visit the Kelpies on this trip, but it would have meant an hour’s detour from my route – that will have to be saved for next time. At Falkirk the Union canal ends, and I join the Forth and Clyde canal towpath.
And so onward – the canal is broader here, and settlements are few and far between, until slowly I reach the outskirts of Glasgow and Maryhill, my stop for the night.
The next morning I skip breakfast and set off on the final loop, taking me to the banks of the Clyde and the end of the canal at Bowling. I’d originally planned to just get to Glasgow, but with the end of the canal a mere 30km away, it would feel like I’d missed out. Despite being quite heavily populated, the canal towpath is still a peaceful haven, with the occasional jogger and group of walkers out enjoying a pleasant morning. I sail past a series of locks, recognising that I am going to have to climb those later.. I have hardly changed gear in 100km of riding.
And finally, into Bowling and the harbour and canal basin. Time now for coffee and breakfast under the old railway line.
I’d planned a riverside return to Glasgow, but in the end I decided that it would be far more pleasant to return along the canal side, back almost to my overnight stop (and back up beside those locks) before heading off down the Glasgow spur. This is definitely a suburban canal, yet still peaceful and quiet. And eventually I arrive into Speirs Wharf in Port Dundas. Here grain mills and stores have now become apartments and leisure facilities, but it’s still a very imposing building.
Just time now to ride into Glasgow and catch the train home. This has been a superb ride out, and I have loved every moment of it – I think it’s the sort of ride I would do again, one day soon.